“The Spring/Summer 2023 collection is defined by opposing instincts: to experimente freely and to pare everything back.
Clean lines and an ethereal palette are the understated backdrop for a new focus on material and silhouette. The innovation of luxurious fabrics designed to move with the body — superfine knits, techno satin, weightless jerseys. An exploration of form in wrapped silhouettes, sporty separates and the opposition of sculptural tailoring over translucent layers. All lightened by a touch of strangeness, the shock of handbags in acid colors, and surrealist shoes with trompe l’oeil toe rings and ‘inverted’ heels.
This collection is personal and intuitive, drawing on my memories of the ’90s when I moved to New York. I wanted to look at my signatures with a fresh perspective, reflecting what feels modern now.” — Tory Burch
SILHOUETTES: A focus on the body continues in sleek, minimalist jersey separates, feather-weight knits, and sporty cropped trousers. Several looks feature jersey bandeaux ruched over the waist for soft waist definition, while others wrap gently around the body, from narrow midi skirts in stretch satin to luxurious Indian silk dresses.
In contrast, tailoring is highly architectural: Molded basque tunics, sharp Italian wool blazers, and boxy coats in gold foiled leather.
FABRICATIONS: The collection began with the materials: transparent and opaque, reflective and matte, luxurious and humble. Exquisite Indian silk, Italian wool, lamé, silk taffeta, lace, and silk gazar with cotton T-shirts, denim, and sporty viscose. The fabrics inform the silhouettes, and many are injected with stretch for ease and movement.
A desire for lightness plays out in shimmering lamé and lace dresses, sheer cotton knits, and organza overlays, which lend dimension to evening dresses and miniskirts.
EMBELLISHMENTS: A pastel yellow tunic is embroidered with graphic silver sequins, while several looks feature mirrorwork in different sizes — all hand-done in India. We collaborated with our long-standing partner, Orange International India, a manufacturer that works with expert artists across two regions in India.
PALETTE: The season’s palette is intuitive and slightly strange, mixing cool neutrals, optic white, icy pastels, and high-shine metallics. In the absence of bold print and pattern, the colors emphasize material, texture, and silhouette.
HANDBAGS, SHOES & ACCESSORIES: This season’s footwear is sharp, geometric, and mostly flat, reimagining what everyday shoes can look like. Squared-off soles, doubled-up slingbacks, and cut-out Double T logos are subtle, yet transformative updates. A standout mule plays at Surrealism with a trompe l’oeil “toe ring” and inverted “gravity heel,” a cushion-like platform above — not below — the sole.
The collection’s new handbags include a ’90s-inspired doctor bag, our new take on the modern work bag with a roomy interior and ultra-light construction.
Also new: a small, square shoulder bag with a cut-out silver Double T logo and envelope-inspired interior. On several styles, the logo reveals contrasting colors underneath. The bags’ pared-back shapes allow for a range of bold colors and surface treatments, like crinkled patent, embossed croc, contrast top-stitching, and neon embossed snake.
The season introduces new experiments in jewelry: Cosmic hoops feature iridescente charms and beads; silver snakes wrap around the wrists and biceps; and cascading wire hoops mimic the effect of multiple piercings.
THE SHOW: Set on the Hudson River at Pier 76, the Spring/Summer 2023 show took place at sunset with a celestial mobile suspended over the runway. Wladimir Schall produced the music, which included “Suite Bergamasque” by Tomita, “Whole Lotta (V dub edit)” by Led Zeppelin, “I Heard it Through the Grapevine” by The Slits, “Don’t Break My Heart” by UB40, and “Tonight, Tonight” by The Smashing Pumpkins.