Inspired by the Californian desert, the spring-summer collection by Hermès was a call to freedom this Saturday (1) at Paris Fashion Week.
“The time has come to go out and celebrate freedom. We’ve been confined too long,” said Artistic Director of Hermès Women’s Collections, Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski.
The pants in the collection are reminiscent of the material used in camping tents, while ropes serve to structure and wrap dresses and sandals.
The cut is simple and fluid.
The show’s installation evoked dunes under the sunset. The color palette varied between sand beige and terracotta, or ocher yellow, with hints of pink and orange.
“The ropes are the main axes, with which everything can be laced. They serve to support, to create volume. The zippers not only serve as a closure, but also to guide different movements of the garment”, explained Nadège Vanhée-Cybulski.
The inspiration “comes from the universe of nature, that sporty aspect of tents, backpacks”, he added.
The strong element of the collection is the shoes, designed by Pierre Hardy.
They are sandals with soles made of carbon fiber blades, which give them a space appearance.
“It’s a mixture of technology and archaism, the simplest sandal possible, spartan. The idea is to glide while walking,” he explained to AFP.
“What would a @hermes rave be like in the middle of the Californian desert? Surprising would be the most appropriate answer. Starting with the setting: a gigantic dune with projections that changed color throughout the show. The pieces, in shades of brown, yellow and pink (to represent the color of the sunset), were created to look like they had been made with pieces of tents and mosquito screens, as in the case of sports looks with micro-perforations. And, as you’d expect from the maison’s accessories, handcrafted with the highest precision, nothing was as desired as the feather-detailed bags and pierced platforms.“
The spring-summer 2023 collection has Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski as creative director.
Nadége has been running the Hermès women’s collections since 2014. Before taking over the century-old brand, she worked for luxury brands such as Celine, Maison Martin Margiela and The Row.